500 Heirloom Evergreen White Bunching Onion Seeds COMB S/H Allium fistulosum. Also known as Evergreen White Bunching Nebuka, Japanese Bunching Onion, He Shi Ko Bunching Onion, Welsh Onion, Multiplier Onion, Scallion, Green Onion. Perennial. 70 days. 12-20″ height. 4-6″ spacing. Day neutral variety. Produces onion plants that grow an average of 10-12″ tall, with white shanks 2-3″ long. ***ONIONS GROWING GUIDE BELOW*** *** ()*** Max shipping fee is $4.29. You will not pay anymore than that no matter how many seeds (You must checkout with all seeds at the same time with only one payment in order to get combined shipping). U.S. order take 2- 7 business days to arrive. (Depends on which state you live in) All Of Our Vegetable Seeds Are Heirloom And Organic Unless Otherwise Stated. Organic seeds will be stated as such in item title and item description, . All Seeds We Carry Are Either For The Current Growing Season Or For The Next Growing Season To Come Which Is Why Our Seeds Have Such A High Germination Rate And Will Last For Years If Stored Properly. We Do Not Sell Old Seeds. Our Heirloom Seeds Are All Gathered And Packaged By Hand So No Weed Seeds Or Anything Other Than What You Ordered Will Be In Your Seed Packets. We Do Not Carry Any Gmo Or Altered Seeds. All Seeds Come In A 2X3 Resealable Plastic Zip Lock Bag, Shipped In A Protective Bubble Mailer. If You Have Any Questions You Can Message Us At Any Time. .. All multiple orders of the same seed are put in the same bag. For example if you order 500 beefsteak tomato seeds x 3 then 1500 seeds will be put in the same bag. We do not send out 3 individual bags with 500 in each. This goes for all seeds unless they are listings of different seeds. NOTE: ALL GROWING INFO AND INSTRUCTIONS ARE SENT WITH YOUR ORDER. Check Our Store For Many More Flowers, Fruit & Vegetables ONIONS GROWING GUIDE Onions are a cold-season crop, easy to grow because of their hardiness. We recommend using onion sets, which can be planted without worry of frost damage and have a higher success rate than direct seed or transplants. Onions grow well on raised beds or raised rows at least 4 inches high. PLANTING Select a location with full sun where your onions won’t be shaded by other plants. Soil needs to be well-drained, loose, and rich in nitrogen; compact soil affects bulb development. Till in aged manure or fertilizer the fall before planting. Onions are heavy feeders and need constant nourishment to produce big bulbs. At planting time, you can mix in some nitogen fertilizer, too, and side dress every few weeks until the bulbing process begins. Seeding? Onion seeds are short-lived. If planting seeds indoors, start with fresh seeds each year. Start seeds indoors about 6 weeks before transplanting. Plant onions as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring, usually late March or April. Make sure temperature doesn’t go below 20 degrees F. For sets or transplants, plant the smaller sets 1 inch deep, with 4 to 5 inches between each plant and in rows 12 to 18 inches apart. Think of onions as a leaf crop, not a root crop. When planting onion sets, don’t bury them more than one inch under the soil; if more than the bottom third of the bulb is underground, bulb growth can be restricted.. Practice crop rotation with onions. PLANT CARE Fertilize every few weeks with nitrogen to get big bulbs. Cease fertilizing when the onions push the soil away and the bulbing process has started. Do not put the soil back around the onions; the bulb needs to emerge above the soil. Generally, onions do not need consistent watering if mulch is used. About one inch of water per week (including rain water) is sufficient. If you want sweeter onions, water more. Onions will look healthy even if they are bone dry, be sure to water during drought conditions. Make sure soil is well-drained. Mulch will help retain moisture and stifle weeds. Cut or pull any onions that send up flower stalks; this means that the onions have “bolted” and are done. PESTS/DISEASES To control thrips—tiny insects about as fat as a sewing needle—take a dark piece of paper into the garden and knock the onion tops against it; if thrips are present, you will spot their tan-colored bodies on the paper. A couple of treatments with insecticidal soap kills them. Follow the package directions. Spray the plants twice, three days apart, and the thrips should disappear. Onion Maggots: Cover your emerging onion crop with a fine mesh netting. Seal it by mounding soil around the edges. The onion maggot likes to lay its eggs at the base of plants, so the netting should prevent that. You should also keep mulch away because the insects like decaying organic matter, and make sure you completely harvest your onions as the season progresses. Onion maggots are usually a problem in very rainy periods, so these precautions may be unnecessary if you have a dry season. HARVEST/STORAGE When onions start to mature, the tops become yellow and begin to fall over. At that point, bend the tops down or even stomp on them to speed the final ripening process. Loosen the soil to encourage drying, and after a few days turn them up and let them cure on dry ground. Always handle them very carefully—the slightest bruise will encourage rot to set in. When tops are brown, pull the onions. Be sure to harvest in late summer, before cool weather. Mature onions may spoil in fall weather. Allow onions to dry for several weeks before you store them in a root cellar or any other storage area. Spread them out on an open screen off the ground to dry. Store at 40 to 50 degrees F (4 to 10 degrees C) in braids or with the stems broken off. Mature, dry-skinned bulbs like it cool and dry, so don’t store them with apples or potatoes.